This ceremonial 12-seat restaurant is in WA Garden — a Japanese courtyard brought to life on Romanov Lane by the White Rabbit Family. Ayu unfolds like a traditional landscape painted on a silk scroll: from meticulous details (porcelain from Kyoto, a vintage hibachi grill, knives forged by hereditary sword smiths) to the brilliant prospect of spending two and a half hours at a table made from 300-year-old cypress enjoying an omakase, a chef’s-choice tasting menu. At the entrance, you're asked to remove your shoes and put your phone on silent. Sushi and sashimi are recommended to be eaten with your hands without delay: then the long procession of courses will reveal the pristine taste of gifts from the sea — from scallop to kawahagi.

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• japanese
• parking