This meat restaurant from Lucky Group (Eva, Jun, Koji, and others) on Neglinnaya rethinks archetypal American steakhouses: to the substantial dining room — dark wood paneling, carpeting, leather-bound menus — designer John Whelan added an open kitchen of metal and flames. A formidable dry-aging chamber, a jaw-dropping lineup of striploins and porterhouses, beef Wellington, tongue schnitzel, and a wagyu cheeseburger — the only way to increase the sybaritism is with a visit to the Sanduny Baths, conveniently located in the neighboring building. The wine list emphasizes reds and France. At the entrance there's a bar where you're tempted to discuss old-school classics with the bartender — martinis, Negronis, and Hanky Pankies.