In Maison Dellos restaurants (Cafe Pushkin, Turandot, and others), the atmosphere is always impressive, and Andrey Dellos, an ardent Francophile and trained art restorer, made a passionate declaration of love for the brasserie. Art Nouveau, complete with sinuous woodwork and faceted glass, reigns here, and the name is a paraphrase of Le Chat Noir, a 19th-century cabaret in Montmartre where one might have encountered Maupassant, Debussy, or Toulouse-Lautrec. Even the address on Tverskoy is a reminder that both capitals are built on boulevards. The menu has everything you'd expect: onion soup, coq au vin, ratatouille, and escargots. But they're hospitably complemented with pasta, burgers, and Olivier salad. Cocktails are dedicated to Sarah Bernhardt — très bien, just like ordering oysters and champagne in her honor.

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• french
• breakfast
• livemusic
• parking
• winelist
• terrace
• petsallowed
• delivery