This Japanese Folk Team restaurant (Folk, Padron, and others) is like an origami sculpture, flawless in its edges and surfaces. At the center, there's a custom charcoal grill for everything that isn't served raw. The ceiling over the open kitchen curves like Hokusai waves. Rose salt panels provide vertical accents — on the interior wall and the exterior column. In summer, the latter pairs with such stunning sunsets over Trubnaya that people gather on the terrace to watch them as if cherry blossoms were blooming. The menu probes for new depths in Asian canon: eel sando, striploin aged in koji, rolls topped with sea-urchin roe. Diverse cocktails feature umeshu, soju, shiso, and yuzu, and if you want Tsvetnoy Boulevard to feel like a rock garden, ask for sake served in o-choko cups.

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• japanese
• chefstable
• winelist
• terrace
• petsallowed
• delivery