Dim lighting and the glimmer of candles reflecting on black lacquered surfaces, grid windows reaching the floor, a subtle aroma of wood — that's the saxaul root smoldering in the oven. In the kitchen — Georgy Troyan, one of the country's most distinctive chefs. On the menu — buckwheat with Parmesan for breakfast and shchi with pastrami for lunch, cabbage rolls, steaks, flatbreads, scallops. Little has changed since opening in 2016, yet it's still packed like opening day. Why? Regulars just shrug and point to Tyutenkov, the co-creator of iconic Uilliam's, Pinch, and Ugolek creates places of almost esoteric power. In winter, a totem idol usually stands at Severyane's entrance instead of Christmas trees. And inside, a thick forest magic — the kind that, when it strikes you, goes straight to the heart.

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• international
• breakfast
• winelist
• terrace
• petsallowed
• delivery