The Freaks' innovation is pairing cutting-edge bottles led by grower champagnes with cheeky street food: herring sandwiches, wraps with crab, avocado, or eel, or even pies with caviar and sour cream. After munching on lightly salted tomatoes with jonjoli, you can move on to something substantial: chicken, lamb shoulder, a foie-gras pithivier pie, or lobster with morels from the specials board. Mashups as a way of life: rugs, velvet, and the signature jellyfish chandelier, posters that are practically their own genre of graphic design — and such strong lineups that guests ask about weekend DJs as eagerly as about new names in Burgundy winemaking.

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• italian
• seafood
• winelist