Duck tongues, chicken feet, and fin soup — the exotic menu sets the tone, though it just about dissolves into the variety of Cantonese cuisine: noodles, rice, carp, goose, sea bass, and seven kinds of chicken. There's every cocktail you can think of, from long lists of daiquiris, margaritas, and more — nearly a hundred. The cabinets hold terracotta ceramics and Chinese propaganda porcelain from the 1950s and 1960s — Alexander Rappoport's fascination with these (Beluga, Dr. Zhivago, and others) is how Kitayskaya Gramota began. Launching his first solo project on Sretenka, the maestro in 2014 teased all the hallmarks of his grand style: a strong concept, scale, épater — waitresses in Red Guard uniforms, a pug in a tunic almost like Mao's, and the Great Helmsman himself on pillows.

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• chinese
• winelist
• terrace
• petsallowed
• delivery