Two elements define Folk Team's first restaurant: fire — dishes are prepared in the oven, Josper, and on the grill — and the remarkable ability of the team led by Dmitry Romanov and Veniamin Ivanov to reinvent formats. On Tsvetnoy, they give a master class in deconstructing the Caucasian universe of shashlik and khinkal: the former becomes striploin in pomegranate glaze with chimichurri, while the latter comes with a mousse of Chechen brynza cheese. Shrimp in a ketsi pan comes with harissa and Turkish pepper, kebabs get mint hummus, and lahmacun is topped with jonjoli, erasing the line between Kartvelian and Middle Eastern cuisines (not to mention the open kitchen and dining room). The bar menu rejects boundaries altogether — the shaker fills with tkemali, ziziphora distillate, mastiha liqueur, and cumin.

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• caucasian
• winelist
• terrace
• petsallowed
• delivery