An absinthe bar accessed through a hookah lounge on Solyanka draws guests into its own version of Twin Peaks — a dramatic interior with red curtains and Angelo Badalamenti on the soundtrack. The absinthe collection is vast, and the serving method is classic: a perforated spoon over the glass, a sugar cube on top, and mint water dripping from a fountain dispenser to chill and dilute the drink revered by many 20th-century geniuses. Absinthe is also used in numerous cocktails — led by the elegant Death in the Afternoon with strawberry and sparkling wine, along with spritzes, highballs, and even versions inspired by perfumes such as Tom Ford, Opium, and Red Moscow. Snacks include eel tartare, confit parsnip, brioche, and pastrami.

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• cocktails
• petsallowed